Making the SOMA Pants

Posted by: papercut patterns on 1:46 PM
Alright ladies, let's get down to business. It's serious SOMA sewing time.
For our first SOMA post we're going to run you through making the SOMA bikini bottoms!
Sewing a pair of lined bikini pants has never been easier.
We'll show you why...






Place front and back right sides together of both your main and lining.





Keeping the fronts and backs as one, place lining pieces on top of main so that the wrong side of the fronts are together. The two fronts should be sandwiched between the back pieces.






Pin through all 4 layers at the side seams and crotch seam.




Sew seams together, with a long narrow zig zag stitch.




Trim any excess seam allowance.



Hold each edge of main fabric ready to turn through to outside.




Pull the main through to outside so that all seams are enclosed and that lining is now on the inside.




In one simple movement your pants should look like this! Seams are hidden, and the right sides of fabric are facing out.





Seams are neatly enclosed.



Neaten all remaining edges around leg and waist openings, so that main and lining are one.  This can be done with a zig zag stitch if you don't have a serger.


Before you sew on the elastic, you want to make sure you use the correct tension. It's a good idea to have a play around on a scrap piece of fabric first. We've created 3 examples so you know the correct and incorrect tension to use and what to look out for. We use the slight tension which means stretching the elastic ever so slightly onto the fabric. If gathers have formed you've stretched the fabric too much.




Now it's time to sew the elastic on. Using a wider zig zag with a short stitch length, stitch your 1cm/3/8'' elastic on to the lining of your leg and waist edges, right on the edges.




Stitch the whole way round.





With your needle down, stop about 2cm from the end. Cut your elastic exactly where it hits the beginning of the elastic.





Zigzag the rest of the elastic. There should be no overlapping.





Fold your seam inwards, wrong sides together, so the elastic is enclosed. Stitch with a a wide zig zag with a short stitch length.  Do this for both leg openings and waist opening.


Voila! You have a beautiful new pair of bikini bottoms.

Now wasn't that easy!

Papercut xx